North Goa is well known for its nightlife and generally, travelers from big cities tend to gravitate towards this aspect. On the flip side, the South of Goa is where you’ll discover the quintessential laid-back Goan vacation you’ve heard about, epitomized by quiet villages, verdant rice paddy fields, grand coconut groves, and gorgeous white sand beaches.
This serene side of Goa boasts some of the best sights and sounds that are revealed here in our Vol 1 of our 3-Part Series brought to you by ‘The Local Beat..Chill Like a Goan’.
1. THE CHURCH WITH ITS BACK TO THE VILLAGE, THE BANANA FEAST & OTHER STORIES – SOUTH GOA
Its builders, refusing to accept the obvious, built the church with its back to the center of the village. In fact, this was the first church in Goa to be built on temple ground. Blessed with numerous lakes & ponds, you’ll be sauntering around sprawling green-yellow-brown fields in south Goa’s granary, the gently dancing palms, an imposing ancient monastery, bunds & of course, cackling birds. Try your hand at fishing, munch on a wood-fire pezz (kanji)and witness the ingenuity of the mannos. Now, let’s drive off to a heritage mansion for a lunch on a balcão, feni-cocktails & delectable ghozalio (chit-chat) with the Mrs.& Mr. Fernandes as we sing along to songs of yesterday with our spirited serenaders…
The quaintness, the calmness & the sweet silence of the village life will leave you utterly refreshed. And that is when you will know the true meaning of the fabled sussegado life.
2. THE VILLAGE CURSE, THE HIDDEN TUNNEL & OTHER STORIES – SOUTH GOA
When the Portuguese invaded Chandrapur, its Kadamba King was killed as the people did not repel the attack. The furious queen committed suicide, but not before cursing the villagers. She is said to have beat her feet on a stone outside the temple, which is visible even today…
Littered with ancient stories, this loaf will take us into palatial mansions of the Portuguese era, around an ancient temple & the quiet by-lanes, the tinto, the stone with the footprint, Goa’s grandest mansion including the secret chamber. Later, let’s lunch on a balcão over Goan-Portuguese cuisine prepared by locals, tasty cocktails & songs of yesterday by our serenaders. You will be in some kind of wonderful enchantment.
3. THE ANCESTRAL VILLAGE OF SOUTH GOA
Legend has it that when the Jesuit priests’ 2nd attempt to construct the Salvador de Mundo igorz (church), it was white ants that plagued the construction, until…
Welcome to Lotoulim. Standing gentle & proud are the finest examples of Goan architecture. We’d be stepping into a palatial mansion that is as older than the Taj Mahal, the whitewashed Salvador de Mundo igorz (church) & the workings of the church bell to inform villagers of angelus, the sundial, the historic seven wells, the tinto, the sunny nunnery, the delicious bakery, the fascinating goddar with its breathtaking views & greens overlooking the ancient bombed bridge of Borim. Try your hand at making samosas at Menino’s gado (mobile eatery). And for lunch let’s step into the mansion of Goa’s king of serenaders, late Emiliano Cruz. On a lucky day, even his son, a revered musician will join us on a serenade.
4. THE LAST SUPPER ON THE HILL – SOUTH GOA
In his greed for absolute power, a Portuguese-era nobleman decides to poison his fellow noblemen at this otherwise breath-taking hillock. But fate conspires…
Today, the monte is famous for the Three Kings feast; when three little boys dress up as the kings from the neighboring villages of Quelim, Cansaulim & Arrosim to bring their gifts of gold, myrrh & frankincense to the Child-God. No outsider can claim this privilege. Let’s hit the monte just before sunset, listen to this folk-lore, soak in the mesmerizing view of the millions of palm trees, the vast ocean, the chugging train. Let’s roll down the hill thru’ the bazaar, marvel at the Goan homes set amidst green cover and down a narrow lane to settle down for a world cuisine at a Portuguese-era mansion. Sip on signature local-cocktails at the endearing gazebo & jump right into the gentle comfort of 20-chair dining. Of course, our serenaders will croon songs of yesterday while you devour the home-cooked meal as much as the travails of the owner.
5. FROM A MASSACRE AROSE A TOWN, DEFIANT
A town that witnessed a bloody massacre by the Portuguese, its walls tell the story of that fateful day. Though today, this bustling city is a remarkable fusion of Indo-Portuguese architecture & new-world commerce. Listen to stories of that long-forgotten massacre, marvel at the dominating presence of Largo de Igreja, or the Church of the Holy Spirit, the Sat Burzam Ghor (House of Seven Gables), revel at the 100-year old structure of Margão Municipal Council & the gorgeous Margão Post office building; do note the Burma teakwood counter that serves you with postage stamps. At the always-bustling bustling bazaar, rub shoulders with other shoppers for traditional supplies of coconut vinegar, tamarind, red chilies, dark brown palm jaggery…
For savories, let’s pick some bebinca, dodol, bolinhas & biscuits. Mind you, these are baked over wood-fired ovens at some of Goa’s best bakeries. Now let’s lunch at one of the grand mansions that dot the entrance to the city as we toast to that vintage-world Goa over drinks and songs by our serenaders. Goodbye worldly charm of yesterday.
